Texas History with a French Country Taste
by Marene Gustin.
The Gardens of Bammel Lane, a Garden-of-Eden block rimmed by
historical homes just south of River Oaks, draws weddings and
receptions to its lavish garden, shoppers and clients to the
businesses that have set up shop in the houses, and diners looking
for something comfortable, yet special.
Bistro
Calais seeks to provide both a comfortable and special dining
experience. It recently celebrated the first year of occupancy
in the 1880-era, De Chaumes Cottage. With its herb gardens and
inviting front porch, the picturesque main dining room with
floor-to-ceiling glass that overlooks the conservatory, fountain and
fauna, diners are tempted to linger and absorb the unique
atmosphere.
"We'd been looking for a place for a year, and when we walked in, we
said this was it," says Jane Knapp, who with husband Roy and
business partner, Phillip Mitchell, own and operate the bistro.
The trio is almost always on the premises; Jane tending bar and
doing books, while Mitchell oversees the kitchen, and Roy does
everything from bussing tables to manning the divine crepe and
omelet station for Sunday brunch. Their presence adds to the
relaxing neighborhood feel and keeps regulars coming back. Of
course, it doesn't hurt that the food is great and the wine list,
mostly French, is fun and affordable.
Mitchell, a Texas native with 33 years in the restaurant business,
has worked at both Café Rabelais and Bistro Provence; however, none
of the team is French. After extensive research and kitchen
testing, the team came up with a winning rustic French menu.
"Not a one of us even speaks a word of French," says Jane, herself a
Brit who ran small-town pubs and raised prize goats in England.
"The duck breast in my favorite," says Mitchell of the Canard aux
Cerises. He created the roast duck dish with its black cherry
and citrus caramel sauce, while Jane developed the recipe for Ragout
de Lapin au Vin Rouge, the hearty Provencal rabbit stew.
Executive
Chef Andre Anderson, who learned French cuisine at the Art Institute
of Houston and under the tutelage of Scott Tycer and Jason Gould, is
the source of the frequent blackboard special -- duck confit and the
Cote de Porc, Sauce aux Pommes where he first brines the double-cut
pork chop then steams it for an hour and a half. He also
favors the Carré d'Agneau au Romain, a savory roasted rack of lamb
with rosemary demi glace and a hint of mint crème Fraiche.
"When you order lamb or fish you should taste it, not the sauce,"
Anderson says.
The charming historic cottage makes a romantic setting for
Valentine's Day, and Bistro Calais is offering a special five-course
dinner for $55 per person. The meal starts with cream of
carrot soup with jumbo lump crabmeat; next is a friseé and arugula
salad with confit of rabbit leg and mascarpone stuffed black Mission
figs; followed by pan-roasted Gulf snapper and beef Wellington with
herbed gnocchi, braised red cabbage and black truffle broth.
Just in case you have room, there's also a white chocolate raspberry
cake with coffee and a complimentary box of sweets for your
sweetheart.
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