"I didn't know this was here," my editor
friend says as he sits down for our lunch at Bistro Calais.
I get this a lot.
He isn't referring so much to the French
bistro where we are dining, but to the paradise beyond the
plate glass windows where we sit. Outside is a lush garden
filled with towering pecans and live oaks, a real
English-style conservatory, bandstand, romantic gazebo, a
splashing fountain, benches, wrought iron gates, Victorian
lamps, and beds of rose bushes and brightly hued gladiolas.
This is The Gardens of Bammel Lane, a square block of prime
real estate located on the edge of River Oaks that is an oasis
among the city and a showcase for historical Texas
architecture.
Privately owned by the family of former
Rockets owner Charlie Thomas, the gardens offer not just an
idyllic spot for outdoor wedding receptions and birthday
bashes but are surrounded by charming 19th-century Houston
homes and cottages, moved here in the 1980s and lovingly
restored. Today they house dentists and real estate offices,
alternative healers and shops.
There's the Needle House, with all things
needlepoint, from spools of colored yarn to intricate
patterns; The Healthy Weigh with its porch swing and
decorative chimes upon the porch of its 1917 cottage, where
you can receive massages and nutritional counseling; and the
Hairitage, a charming beauty salon in residence in the 1938
Darsey home.
And you can't miss the gray house with its
bay and portal windows and white-washed trim sitting on the
Phil Fal Street side. Moviegoers will soon recognize it as the
bakery in the upcoming romantic comedy "Love and Mary," shot
here last March. But it's really home to Diane D'Agostino's
Elegant Edibles. The smells inside are as mouthwatering as the
delicious Texas treats, everything from chili-flavored pecans
to biscotti. Written up in Saveur magazine, these Lone Star
snacks make perfect gifts, that is, if you can stop from
eating them yourself.
Of course the gastronomic highpoint to a
trip to The Gardens of Bammel Lane is Bistro Calais, a barely
year-old French bistro that occupies the 1880-era,
3,166-square-foot De Chamues Cottage.
Phillip Mitchell, one of the three owners,
was already set on the location before he wandered out and
read the iron plaque outside.
"This house was right down the street from
where I grew up in the Third Ward," Mitchell says. "We used to
call these shotgun houses; turns out all of these buildings
are historic homes from the Third, Fourth and Fifth wards in
Houston."
Neither Mitchell, nor co-partners Jane and
Roy Knapp, speak a word of French, but Mitchell has spent his
entire life in the restaurant business and the last 12 years
of those in eateries specializing in French bistro foods. He
says, "I love French food and wine and I think people now want
a more casual atmosphere in which to eat great foods."
Executive Chef Andre Anderson whips up
affordable, fantastic food from rabbit stew to Carré d'Agneau
au Romain ($22), a savory roasted rack of lamb with rosemary
demi glace and a hint of mint crème fraiche. The eatery is
also known for its almost glutinous carvery Sunday brunch with
crepe and omelet stations, tables laden with roasted meats,
grilled vegetables and pastry pyramids. And of course they
boast a fine selection of French wines.
Besides a full and content belly, you might
also leave with a few sprigs of fresh rosemary, lavender, sage
or basil from the beds in front of the restaurant and if
you're really lucky, you might even see the ghost of Bistro
Calais.
"When we first moved in, strange things
happened," says Jane Knapp. "Things in the kitchen would move
around and we'd have odd light shapes turn up in photographs."
But not to worry, "he's a friendly ghost," Knapp says.
Perhaps, like the rest of us, he's just here
for the foods and the ambience.